Unspoilt valley in spain's largest protected area

The aldea of Huelga Utrera consists of about 25 houses and used to be home to a thriving community with its own school and shop where the locals lived a subsistence lifestyle farming the surrounding land - mainly cereals and walnuts.

Over the last few decades, as the rural areas of Spain have slowly become less populated, the permanent population dwindled to a handful of the old folks and today the aldea is no longer inhabited year round. Six to eight of the last full-time residents of the aldea spend the winter months with their families and return to valley from Easter through to November to tend their 'huertas' and enjoy the cool mountain air.
Many family members retain a house in the village for the holiday months and weekends.

Spring

Spring is stunning in Huelga Utrera. It arrives late in the valley, but by March the hedge rows are bursting with violets and primroses.
The early fruit trees, cherries, are beginning to blossom and the poplars throughout the valley turn nearly an autumn red as the young shoots form.
As spring progresses, wild flowers literally carpet the woods. May is a good time to spot the bright pink violet unique to this area, viola cazorlensis you may also come across morels and other edible spring fungi - we'll leave you an identification guide and a few recipes in the house (delicious stuffed!).

This is also the time for migratory birds to return to the valley - Golden Orioles build their nests in the poplars near to the house and their tropical call rings through the valley. If you are lucky, the red squirrel kittens will pose for you as they play in the sun - unlike their parents they are remarkably unfazed by human presence. The valley rattles to the sound of green and great spotted woodpeckers who are there year round in large numbers (I've counted six in single orchard). Short-toed and booted eagles arrive to supplement the resident population of Bonelli's and Golden Eagle.

May is also the month to spot some of the extraordinary moths and butterflies of the area. Perhaps the most striking are the Saturniids - The Giant Peacock Moth (Saturnia pyri) is a regular visitor to the house - we often find them in the outbuildings - it's unmistakeable being Europe's largest moth. The Spanish Moon Moth (Graellsia isabellae) can also be found around the street lighting in the village - there is a small population of these rare and beautiful moths in the area and a few evening walks in May or June will normally be enough to spot one. These really look as though they have escaped from a hothouse rather than being a cool mountain species.

During this period a few of the old-timers in the village migrate back to the mountain to start planting and tending their vegetables. The butcher, baker and greengrocer from the nearest town restart their regular visits to the village.

Summer

As you would expect in Southern Spain, the summer days are hot and sunny with daytime temperatures in the high 20s and low 30s. The big difference here is that the evenings are normally cool and refreshing after the heat of the day. As the rest of southern Spain suffers a hot sticky nights, we usually sleep with at least a blanket on the bed even in August.

The river Segura is bracing even at the height of summer, but the river Madera with its long gentle course through the mountains, offers some great spots for a deliciously comfortable swim. A short and very scenic walk from the village, takes you to some wonderful 'pozas' - natural pools, ideal for a dip. The Embalse de Anchuricas (Anchurica resevoir) fills 140acres of the valley and is a 10minute drive (5miles) from Huelga Utrera. A flat area and small church perched on the edge of the lake in Casicas del Rio Segura is a perfect spot to take a swim. The view, with the surrounding towering mountains is exceptional.

In true Spanish style, in August, the village fills as families with roots in the aldea return to spend the hottest month in Spain, in the cool of the mountain. The population swells to perhaps thirty. The atmosphere is friendly and relaxed. We hold our villages fiestas in mid-August and all are welcome. There are lots of children and they have a great time playing in the acequia (irrigation channel) that runs past the house. In the evenings one or another of the parents will normally organise a hike to spot animals or our resident entomologist will lead a group out armed with a net (and an official license!!).

Autumn

Autumn is a wonderful time of year as the mountains change their colours. There are enough populars, walnuts and aspens in the area to get a real 'fall' look to the mountains. The day's are still warm and the nights, a little cooler - enough to justify lighting the chimney in the evenings.
Don't be surprised to spot people in the mountains this time of year, with their heads down carrying wicker baskets. Mushroom hunting attracts weekend visitors and there are many edible varieties to be found, even truffles although you are unlikely to find them without help from a trained dog or pig.
You'll find several guide books in the house to help you identify edible varieties, you'll also find some of our favourite recipes.

The end of September and early October is the berrea or rut of the Red Deer. The valley can ring out with the sound of the males distinct roaring. This is a great time to spot the male red deer as they have other things on their mind and are not as likely to be spooked as other times of year.

October is also the season for the walnuts which abound in the area. A evening walk this time of year will often be punctuated by cracking sounds - the walnuts are a favourite of the wild-boar who are very selective in their eating techniques. They'll spit the stones of fruit such as plums and peaches and carefully shell walnuts to pull out the soft kernels.

Winter

In the winter months, you may well have the valley to yourself, with the nearest neighbour 10km away. The quiet of the evening is normally only broken by the sounds of wildlife. You won't have to wander far either to get a glimpse; the kitchen is normally a good place to spot the fallow or red deer that tend to graze the huertas in the evening hours. A little further afield and you are likely to spot Wild Boar, Cabra Montes and the occasional fox. There are badgers in the huertas connected to the aldea and around the houses we often find the droppings of Ginet and Polecat. Red squirrels abound and make for great photo opportunities. A otter sighting in the Segura or Madera rivers is also a possibility. On two occasions we've heard Eagle Owls in the aldea itself - a striking sound in the evening hours.

Given the altitude of the aldea and its position, at the foot of the valley, the weather between November and March is normally sunny, cold, dry and crisp. Sub-zero temperatures are not unusual and neither is the occasional fall of snow. Although the aldea is isolated, the main road through the valley serves a dozen similar populations and is kept transitable and clear of snow throughout the winter. A snowfall in the aldea really highlights the amount of animal life to be found in this area. The woods and huertas are crossed with tracks - you'll find a guide to animal tracks & signs the house library which makes an interesting companion on a winter hike.

The house is centrally heated with radiators in all rooms and a log burning stove in the lounge - you'll find an abundant supply of wood in the stable and this is included in the price. All beds have down duvets so you are guaranteed a cosy stay even in the depths of winter.